If a handrail breaks and someone falls as a result, the owner is legally liable, regardless of Third Party Cover Insurance. Railing repairs should be carried out promptly. It is essential to identify and remedy the cause of any structural movement resulting in damage to the railings themselves.

Any replacement work should always match the original, and new castings can be made locally to match any pattern. There are foundries and suitable metalworking firms who are able to carry out repairs.

More complex repairs are required for the more elaborate railings; with double copes and ornamental husks, are the most susceptible of all to rust damage.

Water trapped within the hollow husks will eventually throw it off completely and up to three inches of rust build-up is not uncommon on the lower coping.

The pin which is cast into the baluster is sawn off above the handrail and rivetted into a countersunk hole in the handrail.

Balusters and support uprights should be fixed into the stone plinth in the traditional way, with staved lead set proud. The sinking should be dry and contains about a teaspoonful of powdered resin to avoid a blow-out of molten lead.

1. Baluster sawn off below lower coping and set aside.
2. Wrought-iron copings removed. Mild-steel lower coping replaced.
3. Hollow husk positioned, the upper coping replaced and baluster heads inserted.
4. Lead poured into hollow husk. Lead must be sufficiently hot to ensure that it runs right through.
5. Joints between husks which are likely to be of varying size must be thoroughly primed and filled with lead.

Repairs to the plinth itself, or to the platt and steps, are dealt with in Steps, Platts and Arches.

Handrails cannot be matched by mild steel or stock wrought-iron sections.

Replacing the whole length of railing with inappropriate style or mild steel railings.